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Thumbnail Tour

Fort Delaware and Pea Patch Island

with Ed Bearss

Pierre L'Enfant recognized this site as strategically significant and recommended that a fort be built on Pea Patch Island to defend the cities of Philadelphia and New York.  Several forts have been located here since 1819.  This concrete and brick version was finished in 1859, two years before the Civil War. The property extends over six acres, with 32-foot high granite and brick walls, from seven to thirty feet thick.  The sally port is entered by a drawbridge over a 30 foot wide moat.  It was armed with three tiers of guns.  Twenty-five million bricks were used to build the fort and interior buildings, which includes circular granite stairways.  Wooden barracks were built on the perimeter to house the Confederate prisoners of war.The first prisoners were casualties from the Battle of Kernstown in 1862, and most of the 1863 prisoners from Gettysburg were brought here, staying for the remainder of the war.  A total of 32,000 prisoners passed through Fort Delaware.  While conditions were not admirable, it was relatively disease free with a low death rate of 7.2%, compared to Andersonville (15%) and Elmyra (22%).  Most of the 2,700 prisoners who died here are buried at nearby Finn's Point, New Jersey.  
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Sightseeing in Delaware City as we wait for the Three Forts Ferry to take us across to Pea Patch Island.
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Ed previews the day's upcoming activities as the Fort comes into view.
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And when we arrive, we're in for a surprise.  This is "Garrison Weekend" at Fort Delaware, and the Commander and his wife greet us at the gate.  They were Brigadier-General Albin Schoepf, and his very young wife, Julia Bates Kesley.  Ed then asks the Commander's assistance for Martha Hopkins, our Smithsonian assistant.  She is "searching" for her great-grandfather, who was a prisoner at Fort Delaware, after his capture at Spotsylvania Court House in May, 1864. The General assures us he will do his best to find him among the prisoners.  Far right, photo of the real General Schoepf.
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An aerial view of the grounds of Fort Delaware. Ed begins the tale of Fort Delaware, describing the brick and concrete fortifications, and the Revolutionary and Civil War history of the area.

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The inhabitants of the Fort. Ed meets Lt. MacConnell, sent to assist us during our visit. Young Union soldiers being punished, forced to sit on the hot cannon in the sun and recite Shakespeare.  We suffered as well. We continue on to the officers' quarters and parade grounds.

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The soldiers prepare for a review of the troops. Ed explains Martha's search to the chaplain, who pledges to assist in finding her great-grandfather.

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Packages of goods for delivery to the prisoners.  Inside the living quarters, the General tells us about the Schoepf family's life at the Fort. Captain Jastremski tells us about the artillery at the Fort.

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No hostile fire was ever exchanged to defend the Fort.  A view of the drawbridge leading to the sally port entry.   Ed requests permission to visit with the prisoners. About two dozen re-enactors answer our questions about prison life.

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A prisoner at left almost falls out of character as he excitedly shakes hands with Ed Bearss.  We go through the barracks listening to the soldiers' tales of Southern life, their capture, and daily life as prisoners at Fort Delaware.
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Fort Delaware held over 12,500 prisoners at one time, but was originally built to hold 6,000.  The last prisoner was F. R. Lubbock, governor of Texas, released in 1866.  Most could have been released earlier, but they refused to sign the oath of allegiance to the Union.

The final part of the day was devoted to Revolutionary War history. 

The path leads to Head of Elk, where the Elk and Susquehanna Rivers meet to create the Chesapeake Bay.


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Other Revolutionary War sites included Cooch's Bridge and Glasgow-Aikens Tavern.  At Head of Elk, Ed discusses the significance of the location and the impact on the local residents.  During the Revolutionary War, the English led by General Howe landed here in August, 1777 and began the "cat and mouse" game with General Washington. 

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Of course, we never found Martha Hopkins' handsome great-grandfather, William Albertus Burns of York, South Carolina.  But we met people who were like him, we heard their war stories and we learned about their lives.  We walked past places where he'd walked, and we took in sights he surely must have seen.  She didn't find him, but she's closer than she was before.
text & photos Susan Dennis used with permission; aerial view, Fort Delaware Society

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